Moscow
Other
Churches and Museums
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The
Andronikov Monastery
1360
-15th cent.
Photo
Peter Grigoriev, Winter 2010
The towers of the Andronikov Monastery, today “Rublyev Museum”
The Andronikov Monastery was founded in 1360 by Metropolitan Alexei. It is named for its first abbot, Andronikus. The most famous resident of the Monastery in the 14th-century was Andrei Rublyev (c.1360-1430), the great painter of medieval Russia. Rublyev may be buried in the monastery's crypt. In 1989(!). He was canonized by the Russian Orthodox Church, for which occasion a statue of him was erected outside the monastery.
Photo
RWFG 1977
Church of the Icon of the “Savior-Not-made-by-Hand"
in the Andronikov, 1420-27
The Curch of the Savior is Moscow's oldest stone structure. It stands on the site of the mass grave of Russian soldiers who fought in the Battle of Kulikovo (1380), which eventually led to the end of Mongol rule in Russia. The triple apses and shape of the cathedral's dome reflect early medieval Vladimir architecture, while the pyramid of zakomary and kokoshniki reflect the early Moscow style. The original interiors were sadly lost in the Napoleon fire of 1812, but fragments of the frescoes have been restored.
Photo icon-art
Holy Face, The Icon of the Savior "Not-made-by-Hand",
(Mandylion), third quarter of the 14th century, Rublyov Museum.
The
Rublyov Museum in the Andronikov Monastery
Photo RWFG
1977, 1984
In
the 1970-90 this modest building contained the Rublyov Museum, which
then showed rotating exhibitions of the large icon collection of the
Tretyakov Gallery which had no place in Socialist Realism. On several
vists I saw some magnificent icons there, which would subsequently
vanish in the Tretyakov basement never to be seen again. - In 1977 I
finally decided to take photos at ambient light myself.
Only
now did I rediscover their provenance on the large website of
icon-art.com.
In general I will attach my favourite icons to the buldings where
they originally came from. A large number cannot, however, be
definitely placed or even dated - dendrochronology has not arrived in
Russia as yet. Some of my photos are attached below:
A
lovely detail of a large icon of the Birth of the Vigin, mid 17th
cent
Another
detail of the same icon
Dionysius,
Crucifixion, 1500
And two small icons most dear to me
Rublyov's
circle, Transfiguration, 1425. Of this icon I made a cloisonne
emaille copy for my own use.
Rublyov
or his circle, St. John the Forerunner, Vologda early 15th cent
All
Photos RWFG 1977 and 1984
The
Tretyakov Gallery
1856-1892, recent extensions
Photo
Official
Website of the Tretyakov Gallery
Entrance
to the main building. Before 1989 it was the dreary show-place of
Socialist Realism. The beautiful icons were stored out of sight in
the basement - or occasionally exhibited in th Rublyov Museum in the
Andronikov Monastery. That was why I began to take photos of many of
the most beautiful icons.
One memorable morning in 1984 a
physicist friend arranged for a guided tour of the museum by Natalya
Avtonomova, the wife of a colleague of both of us. She was curating a
Russian retrospective of Vassily Kandinsky at the time, which I was
lucky enough to catch in Moscow in 1989. Two unforgotten mornings.
Donskoi
Monastery The Old Church
1598
Photo RWFG 1977
Annunciation (Dormition) Cathedral or Old Church 1598
Photo RWFG 1977
The
Virgin of the Don, Donskaya Theotokos, one of the most revered
miracle-working icons in Russia. A double-sided icon with an
Assumption on the reverse. It was painted by Theophanes the Greek in
the 1390s forthe Assumption Cathedral in Kolomna. In the 17th cent it
was moved to the Moscow Annunciation Cathedral in the Donskaya
Monastery by Ivan the Terrible(?). - This provenance ist wildly
disputed by the Russian art historians. - Now in the Tretyakov
Gallery, a copy replaces it in the Donskaya iconostasis.
For
reference see icon-art
Donskoi
Monastery, Cathedral of the Mother of the Don
1684
Photo RWFG 1977
The Church of the Icon of Our Mother
of the Don 1684
The Great or New Cathedral was begun in 1684 on the orders of Tsarina Sofia, Peter the Great's half-sister and regent for the early years of his reign. The masons and artisans came from Kiev, which explains some of the cathedral's unusual features. For the first time in Moscow, the five domes were arranged according to the four corners of the Earth. Eight tiers of its ornate baroque iconostasis were carved by Kremlin masters in 1688–1698. The iconostasis' central piece is a copy of the Virgin of the Don, as painted in the mid-16th century. The cathedral frescoes were executed by the Italian Antonio Claudio in 1782–1785.
Photo RWFG 1977
Since 1711, the Great Cathedral's
vault was used for the burials of Georgian kings of the Bagrationi
family and Mingrelian dukes of the Dadiani family.
Donskoi
Monastery Gate
1711
Photo RWFG 1977
The Gate Church of Zakhari and
Elisaveta
The
eight square and four circular towers were erected in 1686–1711.
The Holy Gate of the monastery (1693) is topped with the Tikhvin
church (1713–1714)
Church
of St. Nikholas at Khamovnikakh
1679-82
Photo RWFG 1980
Photo RWFG 1980
Photo RWFG 1980
This
church was the surprise of my vist in October 1980, shortly after the
Moscow Olympics. It had been spruced up for the tourists emerging
from the metro station on their way to the Olympic venues near the
Novodeviche Monastery.
Church
of the Deposition of the Robe on Donskaya Street
Late
18th cent
Photo Sergey
Duhanin Panoramio
The last church built
before the great deflagration after Napoleon took the city.
A
"working" church in 1977. I visited it many times, once
during a baptism another time at a funeral.
Sergey Duhanin's
photograph is exactly how I remember it from May 1977.
Novospassky
Monastery
mid 17th cent
Photo RWFG 1977
Founded 1491 on the bank of the Moskva, the monastery was patronized by the Sheremetyev and Romanov boyars as a family sepulchre. Upon the Romanovs' ascension to the Moscovy throne, Michael of Russia completely rebuilt their family shrine in the 1640s. Apart from the 18th-century bell-tower and the Sheremetev sepulchre in the church of the Sign, all other buildings date from that period. They include the large Spassky (Transfiguration) Cathedral (1645-49) with frescoes by the best 17th-century painters, the Pokrovsky (Intercession) church at the refectory, the House of Loaf-Giving, a hospital, monks' living quarters, and the palace of Patriarch Filaret.
Photo RWFG 1977
In the 1970 and 80s the monastery was
a wasteland. Among the rubble I found this mosaic of the Holy Face .
Krutitskoe, Church of
the Dormition
1700
Photo Panoramio
Church of the
Assumption, 1700. Originally Krutitskoe was the patriarchal
farmstead. In 1977 it had been turned into a political security
prison, photographing strictly forbidden. In August 2008 the
Assumption church was completely restored including its murals and
the iconostasis.
Church
of the Iberian Mother of God in Nikitinakh
1631-1634
Photo RWFG 1977
Church of the Georgian Mother of God
in Nikitinakh. Nikitinakh was once the Georgian quarter of Moscow.
Regrettably it was closed in the 1970s. It is supposed to house good
frescoes. - In the distance the former Headquarters of the KPSU
Danilov Monastery,
Seat of the Russian Patriarch
19th - 20th cent
Photo Sergey
Duhanin Panoramio
Since 1983 the seat of the Russian
Patriarch. A classicistic temple overwhelmingly gilded inside.
Photo Sergey
Duhanin Panoramio
Modern funeral chapel at the Danilov
Monastery 1983
In
the second half of the 19th century, Danilov Monastery's cemetery was
a final resting place for many writers, artists and scientists, such
as Nikolai Gogol, Nikolai Yazykov, Vasili Perov, Nikolai Rubinstein
and many others. The remains of most of them, however, were later
transferred to different cemeteries by the Patriarch....
In
1983, Danilov Monastery was returned to the Moscow Patriarchate and
became a spiritual and administartive center of the Russian Orthodox
Church. In 1988, the monastery was restored. They built a residence
for the Patriarch and Synod, a funeral chapel and a chapel in
commemoration of the 1000 years of Russia's baptism.
Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior
1994 -1996
Photo
Panoramio
This monstrosity on
the Moskva Embankment, a few blocks east of the Kreml
is a replica of a late 19th-century cathedral
which had
been razed by Stalin to make room for the never finished “Palace
of the Soviets”, later a swimming pool.
It was
reconstructed in 1994 - 1996.
Alexander
Nevsky Church in Kozhukhova
2006-2008
Photo
Peter Grigoriev 2010
Alexander Nevsky Church in Kozhukhova and
its bell tower (Prospect Andropova and ul. Trofimova)
Photo
Peter Grigoriev 2010
This building is a charming example of
the new wave of "old style" churches.
A private donor
had it built in 2005 - 2008 by the architect Ay. Pshenichnikov
Its
interior is still bare waiting for someone to paint it with frescoes.
For reference see: sobory.ru