1979- 80 Art Center for Susanne,

Tourists for Barbara

The Great Fire

Rolf, Barbara, and Cornelius in Georgia

 

An Ambush at Topanga Beach in Malibu Winter 1979

A mother and her son walk peacefully along the beach, when suddenly the long-legged young man is being attacked by his jealous giant sister.

Why, terrible, what did he say to her? - Look, she tries to strangle him!

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"Mummy, help!" cries little brother. But Mother waves her hand at them. "If you want to romp, I'll have nothing to do with you."

 

 
 

Then little brother found a cap that made him invisible and big sister lost interest.

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"Look Sanni, I am pregnant," he cries to get her attention back and pushes his belly out.

But his sister doesn't care for pregnant little boys - only the photographer is intrigued by this extravagance.

At last big sister puts on her Hollywood sunglasses and little brother his best prima-donna face and they all go home....

 

 

February 1979, Susanne was admitted at Art Center in Pasadena...

 In her last year at high school Barbara, Susanne, and I had been trying to find a good photography school for Susanne. Barbara had even taken her around in Germany, but the requirements there were so complicated, that this idea was soon abandoned in favour of the California Institute of the Arts, where Kris Malkewicz taught film making. This place was so laid back that Susanne decided, it wasn't for her and began to look for something better on her own. Her teacher at Pali High suggested Art Center of Design, a very successful school of commercial arts in Pasadena. Susanne visited there and came back very high. It would be hard work and braving a stiff competition - it was also expensive. She would need to take some make-up courses in Santa Monica City College to qualify - and present a convincing portfolio. I told her that we would be delighted to send her there, but if she could not make it during the first year, I would take her out again.

In 1977 and 78 she worked hard on putting a portfolio together, one reason more that the loss of her camera in Denver was such a traumatic disaster. I bought her another better Canon. Several professional photography friends gave advice, and here she presents her portfolio to Kris Malkiewicz.

She applied at Art Center in the Fall of 1978 - and was admitted - under the same condition I had made, if she survived the first year, they would even consider offering her a partial scholarship.

 

 

 In February 79 she moved into an attic apartment with another (male!) student at Art Center in Pasadena and worked so hard that we only saw her occasionally. They gave her a very hard time - but all instructions were hands-on, no books, no theory.... Which was exactly what this dyslexic girl needed.

Together we bought a big view camera second hand. Some time in May I visited her, and she showed me her latest assignment: Photograph a cerial box with the view camera at a slightly higher position than the box. I gave her a lecture on physical optics, and she threw me out..... Now I knew she would make it. And she did, and even got herself a scholarship for 1980!

 

 

The arrangement with the guy in the attic led, predictably, to sharing his/her bed.... She decided to move out and thereafter roomed with two girls in the messiest apartment you could imagine - but there were no more unmanagable complications

 

 

 

 

She soon found new friends, one of them was Steve Seeger...

 

 

 

 

... and Barbara escorted her first German tourists to Las Vegas (Apr 1- 11, 1979)

 Frustated by her unsuccessful search for a publisher of her German translations of American poetry and novels, Barbara looked for another challenge. Some extra money would be fine, but it was not the major driving force, she wanted something to do for her head. She found an ad wanting German-speaking tour-escorts and in January 1979 took a blitz course offered by one tour operator. After three weeks they put her on a flight to San Francisco and let her do a city tour for 30 people there. She worked hard in the days before this test - and passed it to everyone's satisfaction - except her own: she had been too nervous....

We decided that local LA city tours would be highly inefficient, she would feel that she had to do her house work on top of her tour work. I urged her to take only out-of-town tours - which, of course, would take her away for two or three weeks. I would have to take care of myself, Cornelius, and occasionally of Susanne's emergencies. There was also the question of jealousy - surrounded by men as she would be. I put that consideration aside, we trusted each other....

After extensive preparation for all events she possibly could encounter (heart attacks, bus break-downs, etc), she took-off with a big bus and thirty-five pax on her first tour to Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon.

 

A few times we tried to meet each other at her hotel in LA or in San Francisco. But I soon learned that I had to stay away from her when she worked - she was unapproachably efficient and bristling at me in front of her pax.....

Barbara with a group of "Gemüsebauern" - vegetable growers in Sacramento. The guy who looks like her body guard is actually a "Garden Doctor" from Schwaben.... (1980)

From now on our Summer and Fall vacations had to be draped around her tour schedule - but for her friends she would always make room. Sometimes I became jealous not of any specific person, but of all her tourists.....

Chrsita Scherwitz, Tübingen 1984

 In May Christa Scherwitz, Marga's older sister, stayed with us for four weeks and was given Barbara's royal treatment. Christa hung on Barbara with devotion and gratitude for the rest of her life... as did many of her pax, who would send elaborate presents for Christmas and sometimes tearful letters.

In Barbara's 20-year-long career all kinds of incidents happened. One old lady had a heart collapse at high altitude in Colorado, and Barbara had to take her to a hospital, and because the lady spoke no English, she spent two nights with her there. As a thank-you gesture the widow gave her her husband's wedding ring on parting.... Several times the bus broke down in the middle of the hot desert... or a man fell in love with her and she had to tell him off every night - and work the following day as if nothing had happened. - When she came back she would tell me stories for days....

One time she called me from her hotel in Hollywood - she always stayed with her groups until they had taken off at the airport. Would I come and watch a show her bus driver was going to put on. I loaded Cornelius into the car and drove to the place, where she introduced me to Tingri, a dark-skinned man with broad, laughing gestures from Samoa. Very genially, Tingri in turn introduced me to two of his sons. All wore Karate outfits - Cornelius, who had taken Karate for a while, whispered that they wrre "black belts".... Tingri went through a series of improbable feats like tearing an LA telephone book into two, or breaking a stack of bricks with one blow of his fist. The culmination was, as he first explained, that he hit his son on a particular spot on the neck, who would die and with another hit, he would reanimate him... The young man promptly collapsed on the flour and was thereafter revived. - I sat very close, and I am sure that this was exactly what happened.

Tingri, said Barbara later when she came home, owns a Karate chain, he is a millionaire. He also is a Mormon and a medical doctor. Together with his brothers he owns a big hospital in Hawaii. He drives tour buses as a kind of Sufi exercise. She smiled. "You have never come so close to losing me. Several years ago Tingri lost his Italian wife in a plane crash. He knocked on my door every single night...."

In that first year Barbara went on five tours - I spent a lot of time with Cornelius alone at home. Cornelius was now in Palisades High School. He had discovered Dungeons and Dragons which he played with two of his friends, and with me he played strategic WWII war-games which he researched and made himself.... He was quite a challenge. He also played clarinette and later oboe in Mr. Lish's student orchester at Pali High.

August 1- 23, 1979 Cornelius in Norway

On July 31 Cornelius and I flew to Germany. Cornelius had been invited by the Krauses, friends from the high-rise building we had lived in in Garching, to join them on their vacation in Southern Norway. Being without a woman I decided that I would meanwhile go to Mount Athos in Greece, the monks' republic on a peninsula in Northern Greece which women are not permitted to enter.

Hartmut Krause and Cornelius rowing a junk boat

Constructing something

 

August 8-20, 1979 Rolf on Mount Athos, Greece

Click here for more pictures of Mount Athos.

We travel to Tibet and Ladakh to visit precipitously located Lamaseries, while we have very similar, even older monastries in our own backyard: Athos, the Holy Mountain of Orthodoxy on the eastern-most peninsula of the Chalkidike in Northern Greece. It is a jealously guarded autonomous monks republic that has ruled itself independently of Greece for 1200 years. Its charter goes back to a Byzantine Emperor of 935. The Greek army patrols its northern border to keep women and tourists out.

One needs two separate visas - one from the civil and one from the ecclesiastical authorities in Thessaloniki, to board a small boat from Ouranopolis, where they confiscate one's passport, to Daphni, the Athonite harbor. An escorted minibus takes one up the hill to Kariyes the "capital-village." At the office of the Holy Synod in Kariyes a monk returns one's passport and hand-writes a "Diamonitirion," a pilgrims letter. He mumbles "diakosias drakhme" and looks away. One puts the 200 drakhme at one end of the table and is handed the document which entitles the pilgrim to a free bed and supper - no breakfast, no lunch - at all monasteries on Athos... Looking back after I got up, I see the monk sweep the money into a leather pouch.... Another monk inspects the length of ones hair. He escorts a long-haired German student of theology into the basement - from where the guy emerges shocked. The mok had put a pot on his head and cut the overhanging, golden locks off... My beard becomes the source of many suspicious questions during the days that follow: "Are you a member of the clergy?" - All Greek Papades and monks may never shave their beards - "a real nuicance when we eat our soup," they sigh to the foreigner. And God forbid that you belong to the Papists or cross yourself from left to right the way they do. In the 13-th century the Latin Crusaders ransacked the mountain and massacred the monks - it was never forgotten, as if it had had happened 40 years ago. No, no being German is ok here, they never violated the Mountain. And being a follower of Luther lights up the Papades eyes - "he also was against the Latin Pope, wasn't he?"

Papades in front of the "supermarket" in Kariye

The flying balconies of Simonas Petras

 I set out on foot from Kariye towards Iviron, the Georgian monastery where one of my Georgian friends (Wachtang Djobadze) had spent many months working in the library. Iviron is an idiorhythmic establishment, where you a man can retire as monk on his own money and live in an "apartment" by himself - or as it often happens with a young acolyte.... The Idiorhythmic monasteries are rich and stingy and Iviron is known to be the stingiest on Athos. A watery soup and a piece of bread is all we are served for supper. Next morning I leave before sunrise down the east coast. My next over-night stop is Karakallou, a Koinovion - a monastic community. Here I get a wonderful vegetarian meal that even includes a carafe of red wine.... You can read the story of these adventures in my Athos diary. From Meghistis Lavra, the oldest foundation, I struggled 1000 meters up, discounting all warnings of physical danger and robbers, and hiked around the steep southern escarpment of the mountain - the lonely and magnificent Eremos (desert) - and finally along a string of beautiful monasteries on the west coast of the peninsula.

A violent thunderstorm drove me to seek shelter at Panteleimon, the Russian monastery, where I was given a bleak cell to myself. In the small hours of that night I woke up from a terrifying dreamof my father's dying. Next morning I wrenched an ankle on the stony path to Xenophontes. Not being able to shed my vision, I decided that my time was up and took the next boat back to Ouranopolis. It took me four days by bus and train through the Kosovo and Yugoslavia to reach Gelnhausen..

Mother fell around my neck: "Thank God, you are back. Father fell in town and was taken unconscious to the hospital. He is all-right now, but I was frightened." "When was that?" I asked, "I saw it happen in a dream...." My practical mother always refused to pay creed to such visions, although, I am sure she had, like Christine, her share of such experiences.

She quietly sighed about her lot with Father. He had become uncommunicative and cranky, besides he heard poorly and had become weak. Mother was considering moving out of their communal bed of 50 years, which made Father unhappy. - I could understand his loneliness and begged my mother to stay with him to the end. "Rolfchen," she said, "I promise you I will." They would be a hard two years for her.

 

 

My mother, Gelnhausen, September 1979

 

The Great Fire in October 1979

There were the clouds of black smoke again! Directly behind Pacific Palisades. One could see them from Aerospace. I raced home. Fire engines blocked Sunset and Temescal Canyon Rd, a helicopter had landed behind Pali High. And the flames were just coming across the mountain ridge behind our house. It had never been so close before. The wind from the hill became fierce. With a roar like big jet engines the fire raced downhill. Cornelius and I climbed on our roof and tried to water it down. Ashes and glowing embers were raining on us. Susanne was paralysed by fear. I sent her to load the tent, sleeping bags, and all our camping gear into the car and drive it into the dead end of Albright St. Barbara was in the kitchen cooking a transportable meal for us.

Cornelius and Jeffrey Merkel, the son of a neighbor.

The view from our roof as the flames raced down the hill

As the fire came closer it burned through the chapparal on the other side of Temescal Canyon. A house - whose owners, the Holbergs, were in Germany - exploded in a shower of sparks. The heat on the roof became unbearable. And then the shingles of the Barnabas' house below us caught fire. Together with Herb Crew, our other next-door neigbor we dragged a ladder to the Barnaba house. The fire had already burned a 6-foot hole into the shingles. While we doused the flames on their roof Barbara and Susanne evacuated the confusedly babbling Mrs Barnaba and her husband in his befuddled tails and hat. I had to call his reluctant son in law and shout at him to come and pick up the old couple. Barely had we pushed them into the son-in-law's car, the Maestro got out again and ran into the house to rescue his precious music. When he reappeared he carried a hastily collected bundle of sheet music and his plaster busts of Verdi and Beethoven.....

Il Maestro, Prof. Barnaba in better times 1974

The last picture before Barnaba's roof caught fire

 Because of this frantic effort we had not noticed that the wind had suddenly died. I remember vividly how I became aware of the crackling of the burning trees at the bottom of the canyon below. A complete calm settled on us. The danger had passed - in the very last minute..... We sat down to dinner. The fire crackled all night.

 

On Gerhard's birthday, November 22-25, Cornelius, Peter, Barbara, and I drove to Big Sur to camp for the weekend, climbed the ridge above Santa Lucia, and then continued via the Ligget tank proving grounds and the Mission ??? along US-101 back home.

   

Cornelius and Peter on Hearst-Castle Beach

 

 

December 9 - 23, 1979 Barbara in Tübingen

 Worried about her father's rapidly failing health Barbara flew to Tübingen again in December. It was to be her last visit with her beloved father.

 

1980

Father Lattmann's vital energies deteriorated rapidly. Marga had to consign him to the Tropenheim in Tübingen. He died on April 24, 1980. Barbara was not there. Barbara and Susanne visited Tübingen a year later.

 

 

Father Lattmann's grave, April 24, 1980

Susanne at his grave 1981

 

 

 

September 24 - November 22, 1980

Barbara, Rolf, and Cornelius in Georgia

Click here for lots of additional pictures of Georgia and of Russia

Merab invited me to spend a year teaching in Tbilisi, a technical and financial impossibility.

 In the end, Cornelius swayed me to accept a two month invitation, and we flew first to Moscow, then to Tbilisi and for a few days to Erevan in Armenia. During our stay in Georgia Merab drove us all over his beautiful country and introduced us to scores of interesting people.

There are by far too many pictures to show in this reduced chapter, so you'll find the Georgian pictures separately. Enough beauty to last for a few weeks of pleasure....

 

Cornelius 1979 or early 1980

 

Churches of old Russia, 1980

 

Tbilisi and Georgia 1980

 

Sophiko and Rolf

 

   

Merab, Sophiko, and Mamuka, her son

Merab Megobari and his friend Cornelius

 

Erevan and Armenia November 1980

Valery Papanyan, our host, Barbara, and Cornelius in Ovanavangh

 

Tamriko and Jeffrey in Los Angeles

A few weeks after our return, Merab sent us a young Georgian friend Tamriko Japaridze and her husband Jeffrey Carr-Harris. Jeffrey held a scholarship in anthropology at UCLA. He had spent several years in Tbilisi and spoke fluently Georgian. They adopted us as their Ersatz-parents. Our often stormy relationship with Tamriko lasted to this very day. On my 2001-visit to Tbilisi I stayed her house.

Tamriko, Jeff, and Cornelius in the Palisades, 1980

A soon long-haired Tamriko bewitching Jeff, 1981